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"Welcome to Heirloom," our waitress said, her friendly but very deliberate tone barely audible through the din that pulsed through this lively new Chestnut Hill new restaurant. "We are a fine American cookery. " Slideshow Heirloom Advertisment of Gallery: Video Heirloom Did she really say that? Not since a visit to Colonial Williamsburg, methinks, have I heard a server describe a restaurant as a "cookery" with a straight face. But Heirloom despite a stiff demeanor that can sometimes give this BYOB an overeager awkwardness is very serious about its mission to highlight regional American and seasonal flavors, from the buttery fresh-baked pocket buns in the enticing bread basket to the seafood "purloo" inspired (however loosely) by coastal Carolina. And Chestnut Hill, long-suffering in its wait for some quality fine dining, but now on somewhat of a roll with last years Mica, has responded to this latest addition with gusto, pouring into the 44 seats of its votive-lit, glass-walled space in the Top of the Hill strip mall, even sitting alongside strangers around the long wood community table that runs down the center of the cinnamon-colored room. Heirloom isnt perfect, especially for a place with entrees in the mid-20s. But the ingredients are genuinely good, and there is an earnest warmth to dining here that compensates for the occasionally goofy manner and busy dishes. Chef Al Paris unbridled ebullience, expressed these days in cornucopias of fiddlehead ferns,cheap jordans free shipping, baby favas, and almost-shucked peas playing peekaboo from their half-opened pods, is bursting across the plates. Hes got reason to be happy. Paris, 54, who has cooked a phone book of different concepts in the last 15 years to varying degrees of success,cheap jordan shoes, from French bistro (Oberon) to Asian fusion (Guru,yourcellan.com, Mantra), to old-school meatballs (Pat Bombinos) and neo-soul food (Zanzibar Blue), is creating some of the most appealing and relevant menus of his career. Turning to muses as diverse as the midcentury cookbooks of Ruth Berolzheimer (for spoon bread) and local forager David Siller (for stinging nettles and ramps), Paris is clearly having fun melding snippets of Americana with in-the-moment inspirations. Tender "preserved duck leg" (also known as duck confit) comes alongside a custard of Jerusalem artichoke. Rich split-pea soup is soulful with the rustic tang of Bentons bacon and the pulled leg meat of chickens smoked over applewood out back. A classic crab cake, sweet with fresh lump, is served on a simple-but-satisfying sauce of tomatoey shrimp gumbo. Pan-seared halibut with fennel-infused saffron stew comes over a green swoosh of chickpea puree, beneath a melting pat of Pernod butter. Paris admits he isnt always as true to the ideal of local-seasonal ingredients as hed like. What is a tomato-mozzarella salad doing on this menu in early April at a place called Heirloom, a term whose food meaning found its first real mojo with forgotten tomato specimens like the "Green Zebras," "Brandywines," "Cherokee Purples,real cheap jordans retro," and "Aunt Rubys German Greens"? That Paris is now running a contest, soliciting pre-1950 recipes for possible inclusion on his early-summer menu, proves his heart is in the right place. "I know, I know," he concedes,cheap jordans for sale, "but the folks up here expect a tomato salad when they walk in. I was pandering." At least he was cooking, too, smartly roasting those spring tomatoes in the

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